Well for me this is the third biggest opening in our great city this year. Following on from Heston's Dinner and Jason Atherton's Pollen Street Social, Simon Rogans Roganic, albeit a minnow in comparison size wise (approx twenty five seats), is destined to be on all of the serious foodies hit lists. The vast number of foodies who find it difficult even to cross the city, nevermind take what they perhaps consider a space shuttle of a journey to Cumbria will be well rewarded.
Heading up the kitchen is Ben Spalding, clearly a highly talented chef, who according to his twitter account is, focused, obssessed, into body art, and supports Arry's Spurs.
If you dine during the day try to bag the seat by the open window, its fascinating to watch the world walk by, (if you can take your eyes off the food that is.)
We started with a tasty little amuse.
There is a choice of five or ten courses. Guess what we chose.
Whipped Gloucester butter with Maldon sea salt is lavishly spread over a large pebble. Bread, a choice of three, Spelt, buttermilk and potato, and pumpernickle is made on site, and is special. The best of which is a pumpernickle.
First course proper was
Broad bean and hyssop, (no me neither), fresh curds made from buffalo milk, and beetroot.Hyssop will be one of a number of items on the menu that will be new to us today.
Rubin turnip baked in salt, smoked yolk, sea vegetables and wild mustard.
This dish had us smiling with its simplicity, its freshness, its vitality.
Next up was
Seawater cured Kentish Mackerel, orache, broccoli, and warm elderflower honey.
As pretty as it gets, and it ate as well as it looks. Not sure if this was the
orache that is in the dish, but it may give you an insight. The mildly sweet elderflower honey drizzled around the plate was a nice addition.
Shredded ox tongue, pickles, and sourdough paper.
Again little chuckles of delight from across the table, and we still have loads of courses to get through.
Flaky Crab and mallow cream, young squid and cucumber.Pretty mallow flowers and leaves.
Note the croutons made by adding squid ink
The only dish to make its way from
L' enclume menu is the popular
Vintage potatoes in onion ashes, lovage and wood sorrel.
Roasted Brill, chicken salt, cockles and ruby chard.Cracking dish, this. Ever so fresh fish, wee salty cockles, nicely sauced, almost raw ruby chard keeping all of its flavour.
Cumbrian hogget, artichoke and chenopodiums ?Hogget, artichoke, yes.
Chenopodiums? Wow this really is a learning curve today. I'm not a bit out of my depth, but a lot. In the nicest possible way of course.
We had a cheese course next. All in prime condition.
Desserts next,
Sweet ciceley with strawberry, buttermilk and verbena.
Warm spiced bread, salted almonds, buckthorn curd, smoked clotted cream.
Well, what can I say really. I thought it best to let the pictures do the talking as I can not really do the food true justice by my commentary. Its been a while since we have been to L'enclume and hand on heart its easy to forget how good that place can be. I was truly bowled over and enchanted by all of the food that came out of this kitchen and will shout from the rooftops that this is some of the best cooking that you are likely to eat anywhere. London now has a top, top contender to challenge the very best on offer.
We have been lucky to enjoy two excellent meals in the last week (
Medlar) Both very different in style, but both class acts, nevertheless. Not sure how many days Simon will spend here each week. Truth be told L'enclume is his true love and disciple Ben Spalding is easily capable of spreading the gospel in his absence.
Must not forget to mention service, which is unstuffy, friendly, and relaxed, in a true northern way. Special mention must be made to special lady Sandia Chang who has had tours of duty at Per Se, Noma, and Marcus Waring (who was trying out the food also on the day). She looked after us admirably.
Currently I am typing this in my hotel room trying to finish this report before the fast approaching check out time. We need to decide on where to eat today, but I really am struggling to think of anywhere that will even come close to what we ate yesterday, it has made that much of an impression.
Naturally, a big, big recommend.
Chefs soon to be even more under pressure. It starts today and I think they may have a spare table?
Simon to your left btw.