The latest tirade comes from Josh Ozersky, in a piece entitled I’ve About Had It With Alice Waters, Too. Click here to read the whole shebang. Josh, who I'm pretty sure would suckle nothing but hamburgers at Pat LeFreida's bosom for the rest of his life if his docs would let him (thank god for statins), says:
Alice Waters, who has her own stooge in Maureen Dowd, uses the Times Op-Ed section this week to chatter mindlessly about all the things she’d do if she actually, you know, had any power or any responsibilities: she wants to cook golden beets for Obama, have a show called “The Green Kitchen,” put a “peace garden” in the Gaza strip, and so on.
Now, is it because of the fact that she owns a fairly successful restaurant or two (I'm sure even Josh has heard of it), a restaurant, in fact, that has nurtured some of the finest chefs this country has had in the past 30 years or so (Rogers, Goin, Towers, Miller to name but four) that such things are written? To belittle the responsibilities of a restaurant owner who employs many people and who supports some 85 small, local, independent farmers seems odd to me, for someone who is so smitten with Martin's potato rolls and the exact percentage of skirt steak LaFreida uses in his "black label" blend - or is it "City black" today? Talk about marketing, huh?
Should we also dismiss Marcella Hazan, because, after all, aren't we sick of hearing her talk about simple ingredients well prepared? Italian food - oh, please.
And don't say anything bad about Rachael Ray, 'cause Josh is in love with her - isn't she opening a hamburger joint too?
Jacques Pepin? Lidia? Tony Bourdain? Mario Batali? Emeril? Chang - number 31 - bless you, David! Come on, you can't tell me that Alice is any more annoying or less important to the zeitgeist of today's foodies than any of them. Or can you?