Jump to content


Welcome to the eGullet Forums!

These forums are a service of the Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, a 501c3 nonprofit organization dedicated to advancement of the culinary arts. Anyone can read the forums, however if you would like to participate in active discussions please join the Society.

Photo

Wild Game Cookery


  • Please log in to reply
105 replies to this topic

#1 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 22 November 2007 - 07:23 AM

Perhaps because its that time of the year again, but there seems to be a spike in game-related threads of late. I thought it might be useful to compile these resources into one thread, as well as provide a place where we can discuss wild meat (recipes, processing, ethics etc..). Here are some of the threads I've found so far:

Squirrel
Domestic vs wild squirrel
Deer deathmatch 2007
Caul fat from fallow deer
Ground deer
Asian deer recipes
Wild duck/goose hearts
Wild rabbits
Game (with internal links)

Please post additional links, pictures, recipes, accounts!
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#2 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 22 November 2007 - 07:47 AM

I recently went on my first real hunting trip (i.e: active participant) along with my father and uncle. They generously gave me their catch to add to my meager harvest, and I gratefully accepted, not knowing anything about the chore of plucking and drawing.

The harvest, 2 canada geese and 5 ducks (3 mallard, 1 black duck, 1 black duck x mallard hybrid)
Posted Image

Preparing to pluck (this was done outdoors, with a garbage back nearby)
Posted Image

Step 1: Plucking down the breast bone (you want to pull the feathers 'downwards', in the same direction they grow or else you will almost certainly rip the skin).
Posted Image

Step 2: Continue plucking. I found that short rapid pulls with relatively few feathers was ultimately easier than trying to take out too many feathers at once. I also stopped plucking after the first joint of the wing (too much effort for almost no meat). At this stage, no need to worry about removing all the small pin feathers.
Posted Image

Step 3: I then cut off the wings. That's a female mallard in the middle, flanked by the two black ducks (notice the difference in foot color as well as the head/neck contrast). The mallard also has visibly more fat on its breast than the black ducks, but I don't really know if this is a general species difference or a random difference in condition (the black ducks were shot together)
Posted Image

Step 4: Waxing! After trying to do a goose entirely by hand (and cursing profusely) I tried this approach to great success. Melt about a pound of parrafin on the stove, being careful not to heat it past about 150F (65C). You don't want to cook the bird! Then you laddle the melted wax onto the bird and then plunge it in a cold water bath for about 30s to harden. The skin won't get soggy because it's covered by wax. Cut off the feet
Posted Image

Step 5: Cut off the head, and peel off the wax. It's a miracle!
Posted Image

Step 6: Now that the hard part is over it's time to draw the bird. I won't put up unnecesarily graphic pictures, but be warned.
Posted Image

Cut around the anus:
Posted Image

Reach in and pull out! Don't forget the heart and liver:
Posted Image

Ready to roast:
Posted Image

Edited by Mallet, 22 November 2007 - 07:48 AM.

Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#3 Simon_S

Simon_S
  • participating member
  • 676 posts

Posted 22 November 2007 - 08:09 AM

Good timing, Mallet!

We had the pleasure of plucking and drawing our first pheasants last week. Sadly, it was done indoors (raining at the time) and I'm still finding feathers. I love your waxing idea!!!

We haven't eaten them yet, but we've had a fair bit of game already, and our freezer is pretty full. I love this time of year!!

Si

#4 Henry dV

Henry dV
  • participating member
  • 123 posts

Posted 22 November 2007 - 08:50 AM

Try this Simon.....Coq Pheasant au Vin

Apologies for the simplistic method but I posted this elsewhere and just pasted here !
[/SIZE]

First get a nice old cock(snigger, snigger.....get it over with) pheasant as they have the taste but are tough and better suited to this treatment. Choose a pheasant with big spurs as that will be an old one, skin it and joint it into 4 pieces. Then assemble the rest of the ingredients as below....

250gm belly pork
4-5 small pickling onions or the same amount of shallots quartered
2 sticks celery cut at an angle
6 small mushrooms
1 whole HEAD of garlic(stick with me you`ll thank me later)
butter
plain flour
1/2-3/4 bottle of red wine(cheap is fine)
1 pint of chicken/vegetable stock
Thyme and bay
salt and pepper.

Pre-heat oven to gas 1/2 or 120" C

Melt some butter in a large frying pan and fry the cubes of belly pork,I had a spare single sausage in the fridge so that went in too.

Posted Image

Whilst they are browning, place some of the wine in a flame proof casserole dish and warm it through and then put a couple of tablespoons of flour in a plastic bag and add a pinch of salt and a few twists of pepper. Put a joint of pheasant at a time into the bag and shake so it gets coated lightly with flour. Remove the pork from the pan when golden and add to the casserole dish then if necessary add more butter and fry the onions and celery until lightly golden and add to the casserole dish, then do the same with the jointed pheasant. Always try not to over crowd the pan. De gaze the pan with some of the stock and using a wooden spatula get all the crispy(tasty) bits off the bottom. Pour the juices into the casserole

Posted Image

The casserole dish will look overcrowded at this point but thats OK for this part of the recipe, add the rest of the hot stock and herbs. Then cut the head of garlic in half around the equator(see further down) and squeeze this in too. If it isn`t all covered top up with wine. If it is drink the wine :D

Posted Image

Cook for at least 1-1/2 hrs in the oven, then strain the liquid off through a fine sieve(not plastic) into a pan and boil to reduce it by about 1/3 to half it`s volume.
Remove the meat from the bones and return to the veg and keep warm.
Now get the garlic and squeeze the halved cloves out of their skins and mash to a paste with a fork and add this to the cooking liquid. This will add the sweetness to the sauce and is VERY wortwhile.

Posted Image

Posted Image

When the sauce is reduced add the meat and veg and allow to heat through, then fry the mushrooms in butter and add. Serve with what ever you fancy, I like plenty of mashed tattie and some carrots and savoy cabbage.



**edited to add the mushrooms......Sorry !**

Edited by Henry dV, 22 November 2007 - 11:21 AM.

"It's true I crept the boards in my youth, but I never had it in my blood, and that's what so essential isn't it? The theatrical zeal in the veins. Alas, I have little more than vintage wine and memories." - Montague Withnail.

#5 budrichard

budrichard
  • participating member
  • 1,700 posts

Posted 22 November 2007 - 09:17 AM

After about 20 years of plucking and parafin, I switched to breasting out the bird and also taking the leg thighs and giblets. Very simple, very fast. Many game birds actually benefit from seperately cooking the breast from the leg thighs.
At one time we even located a guy who cleaned wild ducks and geese. We would give him the birds, go have lunch and pick them up on the way home. Rumor has it that his wife and children made him give up the business because of the smell!
Anyway, when he closed, we switched to breasting out and have never looked back.-Dick

#6 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 22 November 2007 - 09:40 AM

We had the pleasure of plucking and drawing our first pheasants last week. Sadly, it was done indoors (raining at the time) and I'm still finding feathers. I love your waxing idea!!!


I wish I could take credit for it! Despite having done everything outdoors, the odd feather seems to turn up every now and again...

Henry, looks like a great recipe! I'm looking forward to trying it.

After about 20 years of plucking and parafin, I switched to breasting out the bird and also taking the leg thighs and giblets. Very simple, very fast. Many game birds actually benefit from seperately cooking the breast from the leg thighs.
At one time we even located a guy who cleaned wild ducks and geese. We would give him the birds, go have lunch and pick them up on the way home. Rumor has it that his wife and children made him give up the business because of the smell!
Anyway, when he closed, we switched to breasting out and have never looked back.-Dick

View Post


So at the end of the procedure you are left with skinless breasts and thighs? What do you do with the rest of the carcass? I agree that cooking breast and legs separately is often desirable, but I can't imagine not having the opportunity to make stock with the carcasses, not to mention the crispy skin and fat :wub:. Could you describe the procedure in a bit more detail?
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#7 Peter the eater

Peter the eater
  • participating member
  • 2,607 posts

Posted 22 November 2007 - 10:58 AM

After about 20 years of plucking and parafin, I switched to breasting out the bird and also taking the leg thighs and giblets. Very simple, very fast. Many game birds actually benefit from seperately cooking the breast from the leg thighs.



I don't have quite 20 yrs but I agree breasting out is a practical way to go for small and lean wild birds, especially if you have lots of them. No plucking, no gutting. I consider plucking ducks to be about twice as hard as plucking chickens. If you like the fat, and I do, get a farm bird.

But if you want to do the "beak to tail feather" thing then good on you. One day I'd like to see how far a single duck could go - dim sum the feet, make arrow flights, tie some flies for fishing, etc.
Peter Gamble aka "Peter the eater"

I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .
Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .
Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?

Moe Sizlack

#8 Henry dV

Henry dV
  • participating member
  • 123 posts

Posted 22 November 2007 - 11:25 AM

But if you want to do the "beak to tail feather" thing then good on you. One day I'd like to see how far a single duck could go - dim sum the feet, make arrow flights, tie some flies for fishing, etc.

View Post



Round of applause for Peter please, TOP POST ! The duck is the flying version of the pig IMHO.
"It's true I crept the boards in my youth, but I never had it in my blood, and that's what so essential isn't it? The theatrical zeal in the veins. Alas, I have little more than vintage wine and memories." - Montague Withnail.

#9 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 23 November 2007 - 09:44 AM

I just wanted to add a link to snowangel's great One dead deer thread.
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#10 rooftop1000

rooftop1000
  • participating member
  • 2,838 posts

Posted 23 November 2007 - 09:55 AM

This timely since I found a bag on my front door a few days ago filled with pheasant pieces and a note/obituary
Other than braising which did cross my mind any other suggestions for the assorted parts ? bone in skinless...


tracey
The great thing about barbeque is that when you get hungry 3 hours later....you can lick your fingers
Maxine

Avoid cutting yourself while slicing vegetables by getting someone else to hold them while you chop away.

"It is the government's fault, they've eaten everything."

My Webpage
garden state motorcyle association

#11 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 23 November 2007 - 05:41 PM

The simplest thing would be to grill it over medium heat for about 15min, until it's nicely browned (you could also marinate it beforehand). Pheasant kebabs are also an option.
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#12 rooftop1000

rooftop1000
  • participating member
  • 2,838 posts

Posted 23 November 2007 - 05:52 PM

I dredged in flour, browned in duckfat, removed the boneless breasts, deglazed with sherry vin, hit it with demi and covered for 10 min to finish the bone in thighs. Returned the breasts and finished with cherry preserves.
Served with boiled baby pink potatoes and brocolli


Posted Image


Pheasant is pretty good :smile:


tracey
The great thing about barbeque is that when you get hungry 3 hours later....you can lick your fingers
Maxine

Avoid cutting yourself while slicing vegetables by getting someone else to hold them while you chop away.

"It is the government's fault, they've eaten everything."

My Webpage
garden state motorcyle association

#13 BRM

BRM
  • participating member
  • 98 posts

Posted 26 November 2007 - 06:33 PM

Our thanksgiving dinner this year was wild pheasant. I did a sous-vide with the breast (but a gentle poach would work well too) and a confit with the legs and thighs. Made a sauce from pheasant stock and red wine. I think the poached breasts were better. I had never cooked pheasant but had heard a lot of horror stories about tough, dry meat and over cooking which was why I went for very gentle ones. I am looking forward to trying the methods here.

It was nice to have a break from turkey. :wink:
Anyone who says I'm hard to shop for doesn't know where to buy beer.

#14 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 18 February 2008 - 07:29 PM

Thanks to generous donations from my family (I went home for Christmas with an empty cooler :biggrin:) plus my own harvest I managed to pull enough together for a game dinner featuring sous vide techniques (since I recently got the setup and am eager to see what SV can do). Here's the plan so far:

warm curried crab salad with potato crisps
I saw this picture on the net and thought it looked good, so I thought I'd have a go at it with some NB snow crab

thai-style rare grouse salad

deer leg with flageolets
Adaptation from Bouchon's "Leg of Lamb with Flageolets", except I will use 36-hour deer SV.

smelts
panko-fried with cucumber tartar sauce
pickled with raw beet rémoulade
dried with soy-ginger dipping sauce

mallard
SV breast with shallot-cassis confit
confit leg with red cabbage and wild rice

snowshoe hare rillettes with prunes
from Bouchon

salmon mi-cuit with vanilla pepper oil
I got the recipe here .

dessert?
Not quite decided here, but I thought I'd go light with a wild blueberry sorbet.

No decisions on wine yet, but since there's just 4 of us I'm thinking of getting 2 bottles of red (1 with courses 2-3 and 1 with courses 5-6) and 1 white for the seafood.
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#15 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 08 March 2008 - 01:18 PM

Here are the pictures from the game dinner:



Thai-style rare canada goose salad
Posted Image

The marinade gave the outside a more cooked appearance, but the breast meat was very tender and rare. Given the strong flavours (fish sauce, lime juice, chiles etc..), I would be curious to see how this would turn out with a more "potent" meat, like merganser.

36 hour leg of deer with cannellini beans and thyme jus
Posted Image

This was cooked sous-vide at 130F. I love the ability to tenderize a tough cut while keeping the flavours associated of medium-rare meat.

Smelt three ways
Posted Image

I made pickled smelt with raw beet rémoulade (bottom left), panko fried smelt with cucumber tartar sauce (bottom right), and tamari-dried smelt with ginger (top). All three were very good, and the raw beet rémoulade is a must-try in my books.

Mallard breast sous vide and leg confit
Posted Image

The breast was cooked sous vide at 130F for about 3 hours, and both were served with a red wine-based onion/shallot confit .

Snowshoe har rillettes with prunes and cheeses
Posted Image

This kicked the ass of any rillettes I've ever made. The hare combined both the sweetness associated with rabbit and the full flavours of game together. The wine-braised prune purée just sealed the deal.

Salmon mi-cuit
Posted Image

This was cooked sous-vide at 104 for about 45 min. While I really like the flavour and texture of the salmon and would definitely do it again, the vanilla oil that the fish was poached in was just too much for me. I guess all the warnings about aromatics and sous-vide were true...

Wild blueberry sorbet
Posted Image

I don't know what it was, but this was easily the best sorbet I've ever made. Near-revelatory. I chalk it up to the fact that these were the best blueberries in the world (handpicked when perfectly ripe by a seaside bog in northern NB by my grandfather).
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#16 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 03 February 2009 - 07:03 AM

Another year, another game dinner! Since I don't go hunting/fishing nearly as often as I'd like, and also not being terribly good at it, I find myself hoarding meat throughout the year and then blowing it all in one epic meal :biggrin: This year a friend of mine is contributing some game as well. So far, we have the following dishes planned:

mallard necks
I want to stuff the necks with squirrel meat, and inlay a morning dove strip: any ideas how to do this? I'd like to keep the skin in one piece if possible.

splake
For those of you who don't know (I didn't until recently), splake is a brook trout(aka speckled trout)/lake trout hybrid. I was going to SV these in butter, and serve a with a light caper-based sauce.

pintail
pastrami (only because I like alliterations). I'm using the duck pastrami recipe from Under Pressure.

porcupine
I'm adapting a recipe from Alinea, with pickled blueberries, beets, fennel, and burning cinnamon

grouse
roasted, then served with cold beet salad (from Marco Pierre White's Great British Feast)

diving ducks
we have both long-tailed duck (formerly known as oldsquaw) and lesser scaup. I haven't tasted the scaup yet, but the long-tailed duck is very 'livery' so I thought I would run with that and make "diver and onions" with figs, from Bouchon.

deer
another Alinea recipe (originally with wagyu), with honeydew melon, cucumber and soy pudding

cucumber/mango
Also from Alinea, this is a cucumber/mango leather roll-up. By this stage a light course with no meat might be appreciated.

pheasant
with cider vinegar, pomegranate, and apples. From Batali's Simple Italian Food

apple
with horseradish and celery juice, from Alinea.

blackberry
with tobacco cream, smoke. When I saw this on the Alinea @ home blog, I knew I had to make it.

sour cherry
sorbet.

The dinner's not planned for a few weeks, any suggestions (especially for wine/beer pairings) are welcome!

Edited by Mallet, 03 February 2009 - 06:11 PM.

Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#17 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 23 February 2009 - 09:47 AM

Here are some pictures from the Game Dinner, Mark II.

Stuffed mallard neck
with squirrel, mourning dove, red-winged blackbird, and pork fat.
Posted Image

I am a squirrel convert.

Rideau fish
From left: largemouth bass, small reproductive adult, monster spawning male, and winter splake. With olive/caper spread.
Posted Image

The variety in color and taste of the splake was really cool. Winter splake was the clear favourite to my mind, tasting like trout. The large spawning male was not very good, but palatable with the spread.

Pintail pastrami
cured Northern pintail, coleslaw, bagel toast
Posted Image

This was many people's favourite dish.

Porcupine
From left, corned porcupine ragout, butter-poached beets, seared porcupine. garnished with pickled blueberries.
Posted Image

Really heady and intense. The porcupine was delicious, not unlike very rich beef.

Grouse "leftovers"
From left: blue grouse, beet salad, ruffed grouse. Served cold
Posted Image

The two grouse species were quite different. The ruffed grouse was mild like chicken, the blue grouse was gamier.

Posted Image

The rightmost breasts are from long-tailed duck, and the leftmost breasts are from lesser scaup. The darkness of the long tailed duck meat was extraordinary! Both are diving ducks.

Diver and onions
From left: wine-poached plum, caramelized onion, diving duck breast.
Posted Image

This played up the liver-y qualities of the diving ducks (esp. long tailed duck) well.

Deer
From bottom to top: honeydew melon, deer rump, cucumber, soy pudding, lime sugar, macro cilantro.
Posted Image

Really tasty, but there was too much soy pudding for my taste, making the dish quite salty. There was a definite progession of flavours: first the almost overpowering saltiness of the gellied soy sauce, which gave way to the freshness of the cucumber and melon, with the lime sugar and cilantro finishing off the bite.

Cucumber, mango
I didn't get a picture of the finished dish, but this was topped with clove salt, coriander salt, candied lemon zest, fresh ginger, juniper berry, and saffron
Posted Image

Really complex and flavourful

Apple, horseradish
Celery juice, and apple cider encased in a horseradish butter shell.
Posted Image

This was the dish I was most nervous about execution-wise, because I didn't have either the spherical molds or the cocoa butter powder called for in recipe to make the shells. I decided to gamble with ice-cube trays and melted butter: success!

Blackberry, smoke
Blackberry in a cigar-infused cream, with smoked salt and mint.
Posted Image

It was interesting, but could have been better. I think I sabotaged the dish by using a relatively cheap cigar and thawed berries.

Sour cherry sorbet
Posted Image

I love finishing a long meal with sorbet.

The wine pairings were all good, but unremarkable.

For sure the most elaborate meal I've made to date. I was definitely inspired by having so many different species to work with, and the novelty of both the meats and the dishes were exciting.

I was told that I made mallard/apple crepes were made later on in the evening, but I have no pictures or recollection of this whatsoever.

Edited by Mallet, 23 February 2009 - 09:52 AM.

Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#18 Peter the eater

Peter the eater
  • participating member
  • 2,607 posts

Posted 23 February 2009 - 11:30 AM

Mallet, you've really raised the bar -- that's looks like a $100+ tasting menu. All home-cooked, correct?

I have questions. I thought I saw a red-winged blackbird, a red-winged blackbird . . . :biggrin: sorry, David Francey joke -- I'm a big fan. Seriously, I grew up around these birds, and mourning doves and porcupines and I've never known anyone to eat them. How does one acquire these things, and are permits required?
Peter Gamble aka "Peter the eater"

I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .
Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .
Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?

Moe Sizlack

#19 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 23 February 2009 - 12:06 PM

Thanks, Peter! Everything was indeed cooked at home, over a 3-day period (from Friday night up until the dinner on Sunday). Normally I would have given myself more time but I had to pick up 2 pigs from the abattoir on Wednesday, and spent that day prepping them for the freezer (only on eGullet can you say that with a straight face). Thankfully one of my friends volunteered to help out with the game dinner over the weekend. It's been an eventful week, food-wise.

As far as the meats go: in Ontario almost everything I served can be shot with a general small-game license (porcupine, squirrel, red-winged blackbird but also groundhogs, american crow, brown-headed cowbirds, starlings, house sparrows amongst others). For certain species, like european starling and house sparrow, there isn't even a limit or season! I think this is due to a combination of abundance and low hunting pressure.

Ducks require a migratory bird stamp (federal), since the regulation of those species is coordinated at the international level.

Some of the game, like the ruffed grouse and deer, was "salvaged". A year or two ago I would have completely balked at the thought of roadkill but as it turns out it's actually pretty common in rural Ontario (especially grouse). It helps to have adventurous friends: I served this to 6 other people, everyone partook.

For this particular meal, I relied on the generosity of friends. The bass and two of the splake came from a friend's father and the deer, lesser scaup, morning dove, and northern pintail was donated by another friend.
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#20 Magictofu

Magictofu
  • participating member
  • 775 posts

Posted 23 February 2009 - 12:51 PM

Mallet, your dishes look fantastic! I particularly like the look of your squirel and blackbird dish.

It makes me feel even more like learning to hunt. I already pick mushrooms, wild berries and other wild plants and I sometimes fish (including on the Rideau river), but growing up in the city I was never really introduced to hunting. Maybe winter roadkill is an easy solution?

#21 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 23 February 2009 - 01:53 PM

Thanks, Magictofu. This year was my first with an Ontario license, and being a novice hunter in an unfamiliar area is definitely tough, especially when you're based in the city. Around here, almost all of the land is private and if you're shy like me you're not likely to show up at some random farmer's house and ask if you can run around his/her property with guns. I'm definitely learning as I go, and it helps to have friends to share in the adventure. Other than culinary curiosity, one of the reasons we're eating more unusual game items and traditionally less sought-after ducks (eg: long-tailed duck) is simply that we don't good spots for the primo game species or any clue about hunting deer, so it's a matter of taking what you come across. I'm glad we decided to try some of these things, though, because they are truly delicious and worth the cost/effort!
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#22 Magictofu

Magictofu
  • participating member
  • 775 posts

Posted 23 February 2009 - 08:01 PM

Mallet, if you are willing to drive a bit further North, I have been told that North of Ottawa, in Quebec, there are more public lands than in all Eastern Ontario. You would require a Quebec hunting permit however. Some of these are controlled by local authorities (ZEC) while others are game reserves, there are extra fees associated to hunting and fishing in these areas but you get the benefits of having access to the area through numerous roads and trails.

#23 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 28 February 2009 - 02:38 PM

Thanks for the info, I'll definitely look into it.

With some of the leftovers from the game dinner, I'm attempting lesser scaup and long-tailed duck prosciutto (made with the legs). I don't think it will take more than a few days total, since the legs of wild ducks are laughably small.

In the meanwhile, I thought I would add a link to this excellent blog:

Hunter Angler Gardener Cook
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#24 Peter the eater

Peter the eater
  • participating member
  • 2,607 posts

Posted 28 February 2009 - 04:17 PM

In the meanwhile, I thought I would add a link to this excellent blog:

Hunter Angler Gardener Cook

View Post

Thanks Martin, that link is outstanding!
Peter Gamble aka "Peter the eater"

I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .
Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .
Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?

Moe Sizlack

#25 sp1187

sp1187
  • participating member
  • 27 posts

Posted 11 March 2009 - 05:26 PM

both meals look awesome.

I have to say, those are the biggest smelt I've ever seen.

when I clean ducks I will hand pluck the breasts, & then if you hold the skin tight to the body so it doesn't tear, you can rub it with your other hand. the fat/oil in the skin will cause the pin feathers to roll up and come right off. you can then finish up with a lighter to singe the little "hairs". I then cut the whole breast out and bone it (I'm sure there's a joke there some where)from the back side. leave the skin on. the rest of the carcass I skin, remove the legs & thighs (braise) and the back (stock).

edit: forgot, make sure to save the heart, liver and gizzard. pan fried in butter, chefs treat.

this is one of the dishes I made for the wife for valentines.

it is an Asian 5-spice duck breast with citrus lemon grass risotto & apricot relish.

Posted Image

Edited by sp1187, 11 March 2009 - 05:39 PM.

respect the food, something died to provide
Lotto winner wanna-be

#26 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 07 April 2009 - 08:05 AM

Yeah, it's not uncommon for us to spear smelt in the 8-9 inch range although most are in the more usual 6-7 inch range. I selected some larger ones for that dish, although given the quantity of food we ate that night I should have picked smaller ones!

The reason I usually pluck the legs as well is for maximum versatility (skinless confit would be tasty, but not complete). Also, I am a poor enough hunter that I almost never have to worry about running out of time to pluck :)

That duck dish looks really good!

Although you wouldn't know it from the snow outside, word has it spring is here. Is there anything worth pursuing these coming months, or do most people sit tight until fall?
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com

#27 Magictofu

Magictofu
  • participating member
  • 775 posts

Posted 07 April 2009 - 09:36 AM

Mallet, if you like wild vegetables to go along game fiddlehead season is about to begin, morels will sprout in a few weeks and wild leeks should also start growing soon.

#28 kayb

kayb
  • participating member
  • 849 posts

Posted 12 April 2009 - 10:23 AM

My probable favorite wild duck recipe is simply the breasts. Having friends' boys who hunt, they keep me supplied.

Here's the simple braised version:

Soak fresh duck breasts in brine for 4-6 hours prior to cooking. Drain and rinse. Roll in flour seasoned with salt and pepper; brown in butter and olive oil, and then pour red wine in the saute pan to about half the thickness of the breasts. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, turning every 15 minutes or so, until wine is almost evaporated. Add beef stock to about 1/4 depth of breasts; simmer another 15 minutes. Remove breasts to warmed serving platter, increase heat and reduce sauce to a consistency to your liking. Slice duck breasts and spoon sauce over.

I serve these with roasted sweet potato wedges (tossed in olive oil, brown sugar, paprika and cayenne) and whatever green vegetable strikes my fancy that evening.

And because I'm near Stuttgart, Arkansas, the duck-hunting capital or the world, here's the World Championship Duck Gumbo Cookoff recipe. I replace the okra with celery because, much as I love fried okra, I don't like it in a soup or stew.

Broth:
5 to 6 ducks
2 large yellow onions, diced
2 large bell peppers, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
3 tablespoons chicken bouillon granules
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
2 bay leaves
Water, to cover the ducks
Roux:
1/2 pound bacon
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
Vegetable oil (if needed)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
Gumbo:
Reserved duck broth
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large bell pepper, chopped
2 (15-ounce) cans diced tomatoes, drained
Salt and pepper
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
2 tablespoons mango-tamarind spicy Jamaican pepper sauce (recommended: Pick-a-Peppa brand)
1 large package smoked pork sausage, diced and browned
Reserved chopped duck meat
1/2 cup finely chopped reserved bacon
1 package frozen okra, cooked to package directions, drained
1 pound raw shrimp, cut into small pieces
2 tablespoons gumbo file
White rice and French bread, as accompaniment

Directions
Broth:

To a large stockpot, add the ducks, onions, bell peppers, garlic, bouillon, salt, pepper, bay leaves, and enough water to cover the ducks. Bring to a boil and cook the ducks for about 1 hour, until tender. Remove ducks and pull the breast meat from the bones and chop them into small pieces - use only the breast meat and discard the rest of the bird or save for another use. Strain the broth and save. Set aside the chopped duck breast and broth to use later.

Roux:

In a large, deep, black skillet or kettle, fry the bacon and sausage. Remove the meat with a slotted spoon, leaving the grease in the pan. (Here’s where I added the saute-the-veggies step.) To the hot bacon grease, slowly add the flour, if the mixture is of a paste consistency, add more bacon grease or oil until it’s loose and easy to stir. Stirring constantly, flour-grease mixture should cook on medium heat until a dark caramel color is obtained. Add the salt and pepper and stir. As soon as the salt and pepper are stirred into the roux, add the remaining ingredients to make the gumbo.

To the hot roux, add broth, then the onions, peppers and tomatoes. Add the seasonings. Then add sausage, duck, bacon pieces and okra. Next add the shrimp, cook until shrimp is pink. Finally, add the gumbo file and stir. Let gumbo simmer for about 1 hour. The longer it simmers, the better it gets.

Serve over white rice with hot French bread.
Don't ask. Eat it.

www.kayatthekeyboard.wordpress.com

#29 kayb

kayb
  • participating member
  • 849 posts

Posted 12 April 2009 - 10:38 AM

Last post for today: I just can't resist.

This is a true Southern dish, one familiar from my childhood: Squirrel and dumplings.

Cut squirrel bite-sized chunks. Boil the carcass with salt, pepper, onions, garlic to make broth, strain, and keep warm.

Roll squirrel bites in flour seasoned with salt and pepper, saute over medium-high heat until golden brown. Add water, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes or so. Make your favorite dumpling dough -- I tend to use regular pie crust dough, although you could certainly make spaetzle. Bring squirrel broth to a boil over medium-high heat, and poach dumplings. Add cooked dumplings to squirrel in saute pan, and add enough broth to make a creamy gravy to cover.

You can also use the same preparation with rabbit. It would probably work with venison, although I've never tried that.

Serve with fresh biscuits, butter and sorghum molasses, and you have a genuine West Tennessee hills dinner.
Don't ask. Eat it.

www.kayatthekeyboard.wordpress.com

#30 Mallet

Mallet
  • participating member
  • 874 posts

Posted 15 April 2009 - 04:51 PM

Today, my friend came down to the lab looking a little more excited than usual. A friend had spotted a fresh roadkill deer on the way to work! We agreed that if she saw the deer on the way home we would rush over to the scene and salvage what we could (of course, documenting everything for educational purposes). A quick scan of Ontario hunting boards revealed the unlikeliness of this situation: apparently, the Ontario Provincial Police actually keep a phone list of people they can call to salvage deer and moose that get reported! Sure enough, it was gone on the way home...
Martin Mallet
<i>Poor but not starving student</i>

www.malletoyster.com